London Eats: Indian restaurant brings Sarnia success 'home'

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A South Indian bistro based in Sarnia is expanding to London this fall, taking over the former Grace restaurant space on Dundas Street.

Malabari Bistro, serving Malabari-style cuisine from the southern coast of India, is expected to open in mid-October. Grace, the upscale eatery previously at the site, closed last month.

For co-owner Sandra Jacob, the move from Sarnia marks a return home.

“London is where we first came, as immigrants, as students. This is home for us,” said Jacob, who’s from Kerala, a state in India’s Malabar coast. “We’re very excited to come back and it’s emotional because this is where we learned everything, from serving customers to growing as entrepreneurs.”

The partners behind Malabari first tested the waters in London with Masala Papad Indian Express Kitchen, a takeout spot that ran from 2021 until late 2024 but now is under new ownership. 

The bistro opened in Sarnia at 117 Christina St. N. last summer and offers a dine-in experience of South Indian cuisine with a bar-style atmosphere, which they will bring to London, Jacob said. 

“This is not going to be a typical restaurant. This is a bar,” Jacob said. “It’s for everyone, not just Indians or South Indians.”

Alongside South Indian dishes, they will serve wings, fries, vegetarian options, mocktails, and their own in-house Malabari beer. 

One of the most “rich in flavour and best-selling items,” Jacob said, is Fried Chicken Perattu ($14) is cooked with sautéed onions, special Malabari spices and curry leaves – and it’s coming to the London menu.

The London location will mirror Sarnia’s menu and vibe, but Jacob said customers can expect rotating specials on weekends.

Finding a location in London, however, wasn’t easy.

“We wanted to be near downtown, near Dundas. At the beginning of 2025, the market was tough, so we paused. But now things are settling down, and we felt it was the right time,” Jacob said.

Opening downtown – where many restaurants such as Grace, One on York, and Massey’s Fine Indian Cuisine – have moved or closed, could pose some challenges. But Jacob believes her business can bring improvements to the area. 

“We know about the homeless and drug situation downtown. But business has to come back there. It’s a beautiful street and right now there isn’t much happening,” Jacob said. “We want to help make the area better and more attractive.”

Jacob said Malabari will keep prices affordable, aligning with its Sarnia location and stay away from the fine-dining model.

“We’ll be keeping the Sarnia prices but of course, we have to consider the City of London as well. So, it is going to be reasonable or affordable. We are not going into a fine dining concept, it is going to be a casual bar,” she said.

When it opens in October, Malabari at 215 Dundas St. will serve a mix of South and North Indian dishes, bar snacks, vegetarian options, cocktails, mocktails and its signature Malabari beer.

“We already have Londoners who drive to Sarnia for our food and drinks. Now, we’re happy to come back home, to the city that gave us the support to start everything,” Jacob said.

bbaleeiro@postmedia.com