Anthony Gismondi: Here are the best 'cheaper' red wines to sip this fall

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With Labour Day behind us, the unofficial arrival of autumn is here. The shorter days, cooler nights and provincewide return to schools mark the end of long, carefree summer days — save for those who embrace patio heaters late into the fall. All of which heralds our annual post-Labour Day search for affordable workhorse reds to prepare for richer foods and the cooler weather.

Unfortunately, this list becomes increasingly challenging to compile with each passing year, especially when unearthing value-for-money wines. Prices have soared across the globe in tandem with rising production and shipping costs, as well as added taxes and tariffs. Sadly, there’s no corresponding improvement in quality for the buyer. Additionally, many red wines require aging in wood and cellaring for 12-24 months, which further contributes to the final price.

Retailers have been displaying sales signs with regularity every month, but most are meaningless, as the “sale” price is likely only a reduction from a highly inflated starting price. As always, your only real defence is to do your homework to become a smarter shopper before you enter any wine shop.

Compared to last year, the regions producing the best value wines remain the same, although their prices have increased by one or two dollars. The majority reside in the larger wine-growing areas, such as the Languedoc in southern France, central and northern Spain, parts of Portugal, South Australia, South Africa, and sections of Chile and Argentina. Local wines have mostly abandoned the under $20 range, but strangely can compete in the $25 to $40 range.

The majority of today’s picks are listed in BCL stores; similar options will also be in private stores. Please note that the published price is subject to an additional 10 per cent PST and 5 per cent GST at the cash register.

Here are some workhorse reds for the fall:

Australia

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2020, South Australia $19.99; Yalumba Organic Shiraz 2019, South Australia, $19.99; Wynns Coonawarra The Siding Cabernet Sauvignon, $26.99.

France

Paul Mas Grenache, Pays d’Oc, $15.99; Père Anselme La Fiole Côtes du Rhône, $17.99; Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône Rouge, Rhone Valley, $19.99; M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut Rouge, Côtes du Roussillon Villages, $19.99; Gabriel Meffre St. Mapalis Côtes du Rhône Villages Plan de Dieu, Rhone Valley, $21.99; Château Pesquié Ventoux Terrasses Rouge, Ventoux $22.99.

Italy

Famiglia Pasqua Romeo & Juliet Passione e Sentimento Rosso, Veneto $18.99; Cusumano Nero d’Avola, Sicily, $18.99; Guffo Sangiovese Merlot, Abruzzo, $18.99; Monte Antico Tuscany, $19.99; Barone di Valforte Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Abruzzo, $21.99; Giovanni Rosso, Langhe Rosso, Piedmont, $31.99.

South America

Santa Julia Reserva Malbec, Valle de Uco, $19.99; El Esteco Blend de Extremos Cabernet, Cafayate, $19.99; Finca La Linda Private Selection Old Vines Malbec, Mendoza, $22.99.

Spain

Campo de Borja Borsao Garnacha, $15.99; El Petit Bonhomme Tinto, Jumilla, $17.99; Laya Garnacha Monastrell, Almansa, $19.99.

British Columbia

Narrative Red Merlot Cabernet Franc, $19.90, Evolve Momento $24.99; Meyer Pinot Noir 2023, $25.30; Blasted Church Syrah, $26.99; Nk’Mip Cellars Talon, $28; Clos du Soleil Célestiale, $29.90.

That should get you through the first half of the autumn, but don’t wait too long. I can’t see prices going down any time soon. Good hunting.

Weekend Wine Picks

CedarCreek Estate Pinot Noir Rosé Grown in Oregon 2024, Willamette Valley, Oregon, USA
$24.99 I 87/100

UPC: 776545502179

Grown in the Willamette Valley and produced in B.C., the 2024 CedarCreek Rosé is primarily stainless steel fermented, with a small portion aged in a concrete egg for added texture. The wine is ripe and round, with low acidity and a hint of residual sugar. Notes of rosewater, strawberries and lemon are present in both the nose and palate. Ready to drink.

Louis Jadot Beaujolais-Villages Combe aux Jacques 2023, Beaujolais, Burgundy, France

$29.99 I 88/100

UPC: 3535923001003

The Jadot Beaujolais Villages Combe aux Jacques is a solid, fruity Gamay with round, soft textures — the grapes hail from the southernmost part of Burgundy. The flavours of blackcurrants, cherries and raspberries are all aged in used oak, allowing the wine to mature without imparting oaky notes. It is an excellent introduction to the world of Gamay, offering more for less.

Emiliana Coyam 2021, Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Chile

$29.99 I 94/100

UPC: 07804320081496

2021 marks the 20th year for Coyam, consistently one of the best and most underrated wines of Chile. Over time, the blend has shifted away from the Bordeaux model toward a more Southern French style; however, it remains a Chilean wine. The ’21 is mostly Syrah and Carmenère, with dashes of Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Tempranillo, designed to add complexity. Less new oak caps off a superb red with ripe tannins and savoury mouth-filling black fruits you can drink or hold. There is enormous value here; backup the truck if you have some extra money to spare.

Mission Hill Family Estate Oculus 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$225.00 I 96/100

UPC: 776545981738

Retasted recently, confirming it is the premier Oculus to date. The 2020 release excels with a mix of refreshing red fruit, rich dark fruit and well-managed tannins. The composition is Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. It spends 19 months in French oak barrels and an additional two years in the bottle before release. Made of 90 per cent Osoyoos and 10 per cent Black Sage Oliver fruit, it is the finest young Oculus I’ve tasted and will no doubt improve through 2035 and beyond.

Privato Vineyard and Winery Washington Series Pinot Gris Limited Edition 2024, Washington, United States

$21.99 I 89/100

UPC: 696852071512

Clean, fresh, soft and fruity characteristics characterize many of the Washington State Pinot Gris I am observing this year, replacing the 2024 harvest in B.C. that did not occur. The Privato Washington Series exhibits these qualities, along with additional notes of peach and pear, complemented by hints of honey and flint. The palate is similar, with increased minerality and a dry, lime-like acidity in the finish. This wine pairs well with goat cheese or clams.

Calendar and other items

• The Vinícola Portugal Wine Festival runs Sept. 27, from 2-6 p.m. at Heritage Hall on Main Street in Vancouver. Attendees can immerse themselves in a tasting journey, navigating 70 meticulously selected wines, from the North to the South of Portugal. The tasting will feature a Pop Up Wine Shop by Sutton Place Wine Merchants and a diverse selection of bites from Arc Iberico Imports. More than two dozen wineries will be represented, including the likes of Casa Ferreirinha, Luis Pato, Pedra Cancela, Ramos Pinto, Real Companhia Velha, Soalheiro, Symington and many more. Tickets are a modest $65 at https://community.admitone.com/vinicola-portugal-wine-festival-2025-09-27/NZ3G99.

• Australian Libby Nixon has joined Benoit Gauthier, CEO and director of winemaking and viticulture, at Noble Ridge in Okanagan Falls. Nixon has a master’s degree in viticulture and oenology from the University of Adelaide, and has been working in Australia and B.C. since 2017. She entered the wine industry through the laboratory, where she earned a degree in chemistry and wrote her master’s thesis on detecting smoke taint in wines. Nixon joins a growing number of foreign winemakers who have chosen B.C. as the destination to pursue their careers.

B.C. Wine of the Week

Hillside Heritage Series Cabernet Franc 2020, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$34.00 I 91/100

UPC: 626990019237

The Hillside Heritage Series Franc is a classy take on this variety, which takes me toward St. Emilion thanks to the fine clay in its lake-bottom lacustrine soils. Elegance and subtlety are often lacking in many Cabernet Francs, but they are on display here, along with juicy cherries and black raspberries. Serve this with a mushroom risotto or pappardelle dish. Drink or hold, there is no rush. Fine value, too.

Value Wine of the Week

Undurraga Sibaris Pinot Noir Gran Reserva 2023, Valle de Leyda, Chile

$19.99 I 88/100

UPC: 7804315002024

The Leyda Valley is well-regarded for its cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc. However, its Pinot Noir has been steadily gaining recognition. This wine presents a nose of damp earth with hints of red berries. On the palate, it has a sour cherry entry that seemingly ripens through the finish, with a texture as plush as you might expect for Leyda Valley Pinot. Another clean, fresh vintage from Sibaris, clocking in at 13.5 per cent and remaining a substantial value at $19.