Anthony Gismondi: It's harvest season in B.C.'s wine country

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If you are planning a trip to B.C. wine country now through Thanksgiving or, perhaps, beyond, be prepared to experience the sights and smells of the 2025 harvest. Crush, as they call it nowadays, represents Year 2 of the industry wide recovery from the devastating 2024 freeze that wiped out the vintage and many vines.

Early reports indicate the results are nothing short of miraculous, having dodged massive heat spikes, prolonged droughts, heavy rains, hail and wildfire smoke damage. Perhaps more importantly, the size of the crop, although less than complete, is significantly larger than was expected.

First up in a long line of grapes to be picked are the white varieties from the warmest sites, led by blocks of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris, the earliest for sparkling wine and the latter for the still versions. The timing of the pick is a study in the interaction of humans and the terroir as they wait for the perfect moment of ripeness for each grape. It used to be that winemakers waited for the grapes to arrive at their cellar door. Today, they spend most of the late summer and fall walking the vineyards, assessing the ripeness of their grapes, waiting on the last ripening varieties from the coolest sites well into November.

The dance begins with winemakers and viticulturists walking the vineyards, tasting grapes, assessing fruit, acidity and tannin levels with each mouthful. The grapes are analyzed in a laboratory, too, but only to confirm what the winemaker is tasting on site. There is no substitute for experience when masticating grapes to decide a pick date. One can only imagine how scary it is to be a young winemaker searching for perfection among the rows on a cool, late summer/fall day. I can only say it appears to this writer to be a somewhat easier task with age and experience.

Over the next two months, the grapes will slowly disappear from vineyards, primarily during very early morning picks when the bunches are cold, and the acidity is freshest. With so many kilometres to cover from the Similkameen to Vernon, Vancouver Island, Lillooet, Kamloops and more, there is no easy way to know when the Merlot or the Cabernet Sauvignon will show up at the winery. It all depends on Mother Nature and what she has planned for the fall.

You’ll know the harvest is on by the smell of fermenting grapes in the air. If you are up early enough, you could witness both people and machines picking grapes in vineyards all over the valley. While most wineries are not equipped to accept large numbers of visitors during the harvest, some will invite you to experience the crush up close. Crush pad activities can be a lot of fun — make sure to be on your best behaviour and stay out of the way of the crew.

You can also play along if you find yourself in a vineyard still hanging grapes by selecting some berries to taste. Be sure to pick fruit from both the sunny and shady sides of the row. Next, taste the sugar and the acidity, chew the skins, assess the tannins, and inspect the pips for colour to see how ripe or brown they are. Now make a pick decision: Is it yes or no?

Remember, there’s no pressure — just an entire year’s work and the livelihood of your fellow employees and the owner. Then there are those annoying wine critics who will assess your decisions as the bottles roll out next year.

Weekend wine picks

Amaral Sauvignon Blanc 2023, Valle de Leyda, Valle de San Antonio, Region de Aconcagua, Chile

$21.99 I 87/100

UPC: 007804407001768

If you are a curious Sauvignon Blanc drinker, this Chilean effort from the cool Leyda Valley is worth a try. It is currently reduced by $7 until the end of the month. The style is reminiscent of New Zealand, with plenty of passion fruit, gooseberry, grapefruit, lemon grass, and a hint of smoked jalapeno. The palate is juicy, crisp, and dry, with similar flavours, plus citrus and nettle. It is a well-made modern Sauvignon.

Moon Curser Broad Daylight 2024, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$25.99 I 89/100

UPC: 626990307242

Broad Daylight is a new, dangerous and delicious label from Moon Curser. Dangerous because it could have ended up as a kitchen sink wine, but delicious because it didn’t. It is a vibrant white blend comprising 69 per cent Pinot Gris, 14 per cent Muscat, 11 per cent Viognier, and 6 per cent Arneis. The fruit is alive, an orchestra of apricot, honeydew melon, citrus and even a swath of minerality and wet stone in the finish. A refreshing white wine that’s perfect to serve before or during dinner.

Guffo Sangiovese Merlot Sangiovese — Merlot 2024, Abruzzo, Italy

$18.99 I 87/100

UPC: 8002001082780

Looking for value is never easy in B.C., but this rustic red from Abruzzo meets most of the guidelines. The 55 per cent Sangiovese, 45 per cent Merlot blend from Cantina Tollo is called Gufffo, meaning owl in Italian, and by extrapolation, hopefully, a smart wine. The colour is medium red, as is the plummy spicy fruit and slightly gritty tannins. A spaghetti red, especially with a meat sauce or a similarly bold-styled pizza, would be the perfect match, or a small fall root vegetable.

Finca La Linda Old Vines Malbec 2021, Maipú, Mendoza, Argentina

$22.99 I 89/100

UPC: 7791203001675

I first saw this well-kept vineyard 20 years ago, unaware of its name or owner, but impressed by its altitude and location at 950m in Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza, on the Andes Ridge. The 50-60-year-old vines produce fruit aged in older barrels, resulting in a soft, polished wine with blackberry, cherry, and baking spice. It pairs well with barbecued meats, burgers, beef tacos, or Portobello mushroom burgers. It’s a rare value in an ever-pricey marketplace. It is a backup truck value.

Unsworth Vineyards Gamay Noir 2023, Cowichan Valley, Vancouver Island, British Columbia, Canada

$36.90 I 90/100

UPC: 626990259008

A classic example of a pure, Vancouver Island wine, in this case a rare Gamay Noir sighting full of red fruit, life and spice. It is stainless steel fermented for a short six months in neutral French oak. The nose is a very enticing affair of red and black Bing cherries with a savoury forest floor touch. Best served slightly chilled, its acidity and spice make it a versatile accompaniment to a wide range of foods. This Gamay Noir hails from Mildenstein Vineyard in Glenora and Blue Grouse Vineyard in Cowichan Station.

Calendar and other items

• The Victoria International Wine Festival 2025 is fast approaching. The primary focus is on the Grand Tastings, which run on Oct. 3 and 4, from 7 to 9:30 p.m. The Grand Tastings are an all-inclusive wine experience featuring producers from across the globe. Festival ticket holders will also have access to an exclusive on-site store, allowing you to leave the same day with something you discovered at the festival. Small bites of food will be available, but they are not a meal. Eating before you go is a must.

• Ontario and B.C. have signed a memorandum of understanding to “work toward” direct-to-consumer wine shipping. But Ron Kubek, owner of Lightning Rock Winery in Summerland, has decided not to wait for the bureaucratic paperwork to push through the pipeline. Effective immediately, the winery will collect and remit 13 per cent HST on all Ontario shipments, mirroring what Ontario wineries already do when they ship to B.C. Lightning Rock believes there is no reason for delay — the principle of free trade is already in place. Kubek says they are “setting a precedent for other Canadian wineries and showing that fairness and consumer choice don’t have to wait.” Over to you, Premier Ford.

B.C. Wine of the Week

Moon Curser Malbec 2022, Osoyoos, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada

$38.99 I 92/100

UPC: 626990114758

The ’22 Moon Curser Malbec charmed the judges at the Wine Align National Wine Awards, with perfectly ripe, sweet black fruit aromas and spicy, juicy black fruit that runs long into soft, dense, fine-grained tannins. A little bit of Cahors in the south Okanagan should impress even the harshest critics of B.C. reds.

Value Wine of the Week

Cusumano Nero d’Avola 2023, Sicily, Italy

$19.99 I 89/100

UPC: 8028262000141

As temperatures begin to drop, Sicilian Nero d’Avola offers an ideal transition from summer whites to fall reds. The Cusumano label has been in the market for years, but its wines have seen significant improvement in recent years. The family cultivates more than 1,000 acres of vineyards, planted to 5,000 vines per hectare. The high density helps control yields, resulting in enhanced wine quality. The fruit is aged for five months on its lees without oak influence. The latest release is approachable, displaying ripe, peppery fruit, black raspberry notes, and a savoury umami finish. It pairs excellently with pasta, but would also complement grilled ribs. The price is a bonus.