Wine Guy: Fall into red wines with a palate shift

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Admittedly, while it’s often said that all wines can and should be enjoyed year round — after all, sparkling wine is not just for pairing with New Year’s Eve revelry — there’s no denying how both the mind and the palate shift with the seasons. And given that the fall equinox arrives on Monday, Sept. 22, and that there is certainly a marked chill in the evening air, tastebuds and menus are starting to favour red wines.

(oops) Spicy Splendor 2022 Carménère, Chile

($15.99, #72777)

As the label helpfully notes: “Lost grape of Bordeaux discovered in Chile masquerading as a Merlot!” It’s a great nod to the significance of Carménère and the confusion that subsequently led to opportunity for Chilean winemakers to renew interest in the grape. The latest vintage of (oops) continues to bring a crowd pleasing style, with plush dark fruit and cotton candy aromas leading into a soft, smooth style overall that concludes with a lick of spice on an otherwise mellow finish. It makes for an easy pairing partner with heartier, autumnal dishes like a pot of chili or mushroom stroganoff. 

Bottom line: B-, Fall transition red.

Tommasi 2020 Arele, Italy

($26.99 on sale until Sept. 27, #203539)

Something about sipping Appasimento wine while the leaves wither and turn colour just screams fall, or at least provides good harvest vibes. Named after the traditional bamboo racks used in Northern Italy to air dry grapes after harvesting, Arele sees a portion of its Corvina, Rondinella, Oseleta, and Merlot grapes dry on arele and boxes for 45 days in airy rooms above the cellar before being crushed and made into wine. The result is a punchy red with fruity aromas of berry, cherry, and plum that shows good structure and intensity overall. Bring on the pizza or simply a hunk of tangy, aged cheese.

Bottom line: B, Structured and punchy red.

Vasse Felix 2023 Filius Cabernet Sauvignon, Australia

($32.99, #17908)

Finally, it’s off to the reaches of Margaret River in western Australia for a sumptuous and elegant Cab Sauv. Pouring a deep purple black, Filius wafts rich aromas of mulberry and herbs complemented by mocha undertones, with a supple entry that thankfully maintains good structure. A touch of Malbec and Petit Verdot (four per cent and one per cent of the blend, respectfully) no doubt adds to the lifted aromatics, helping make this an approachable yet well-framed wine that calls to be paired with a jumper and an early fall patio or backyard hang. Keep the corn hole or croquet set out and call over some friends.

Bottom line: A-, Great with burgers or steaks.

The Swirl: Vinícola Portugal Wine Festival

Vinícola Portugal, the Portuguese Wine Festival, returns Saturday, Sept. 27. Taking place from 2-6 p.m. at Heritage Hall in Vancouver (3102 Main St.), the event features 70 curated, boutique wines celebrating the diversity of terroirs from the north to the south of Portugal. Also featured is a snack bar by Arc Iberico, along with a pop-up wine shop by Sutton Place Wine Merchants. Tickets are $65 (plus fees), for a complete list of participating wineries and to purchase head to vinicolaportugal.com/.