Vancouver's popular Nook restaurant enters new era under former Cactus Club boss

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Nook Coal Harbour

Where: 1155 Melville St., Vancouver
When: Lunch, dinner, daily
Info: 604-606-1919 | nookrestaurants.com

Nook has always manifested its name in easygoing neighbourhood spots, and pizzas and pastas.

It has segued into a new era. The fifth and latest location in Coal Harbour is its splashiest launch yet, with a polished downtown vibe.

“We tried to capture the comfortable feel of the old Nook in a bigger space,” says general manager Sean Manson.

In shorthand, it is the era of Richard Jaffray. He, of course, was the energy force behind the Cactus Club Cafe success story. Three years ago, he broke up with the partnering Fuller family (of the Earls chain). A year later, his company, LFG, bought Nook and its Kitsilano affiliates, Oddfish and Radish.

“Nook is a great neighbourhood concept that I’ve always had a lot of respect for. It’s a special place for a lot of people because it feels local and personal, with warmth, hospitality, and consistent food. It’s the kind of business I wanted to be a part of, so when the opportunity to acquire it came up, it was absolutely the right fit for LFG,” Jaffray says. LFG stands for a couple of things: Looking for Greatness. Leaders, Founders, and Go-getters. “Of course, there are some other meanings for LFG, but ultimately, it’s about the energy we bring to everything we do.”

LGF brands include wholly owned restaurants (Nook, Oddfish, Radish, The Chase, The Frederick) and partnerships (the Hawksworth Group, Shelter, Shed). The last two restaurants in each group are located in Toronto and Tofino, respectively. I haven’t visited the Toronto venues but the B.C. locations make sense.

Speaking of greatness, he recently snagged Lee Cooper, who had sold his share of L’Abattoir, that jewel of a restaurant in Gastown, with the intention of moving his family to Victoria.

“I cut my teeth cooking French food and you’d think making fine French dishes is so much more difficult than pizzas,” he says. “It’s not. It takes skill and I never thought how hard it can be. Part of the Nook brand is simplicity done well, often with two, three or four components executed at a high level. It takes a lot of skill.”

He says he’s finding his place in the business right now.

Cory Vitiello, previously head of culinary development at Cactus Club Cafe (and former Meghan Markle boyfriend), leads culinary operations and product development for the wholly owned LFG brands. Cooper, Jaffray says, will be culinary operations leader, supporting Vitiello with a focus on Nook. Jaffray also retained the talented Sebastien Le Goff (Cactus Club, Cin Cin Ristorante, Lumiere, Cibo Trattoria) as LGF vice-president of hospitality and for his incredible wine knowledge. It’s a bundle of smart money and talent.

Two of the original owners, going back to 2009 — Brad Roark and chef Jamie Maxwell — are still involved, retaining that Nook DNA and the secret sauce that makes it work. (Two other founders, Mike Jeffs and Nicole Welsh, are no longer involved.)

At the Coal Harbour location, the pizzas and house-made pastas still reign, offering uncomplicated, comfort food for existentially anxious times, along with a good selection of salads and antipasti. “The concept is Italian inspired,” says Jaffray. “Many of our guests enjoy eating family style. Nook is known for its simple menu of antipasto, housemade pasta and pizza, fun cocktails and great wine from small vineyards.”

There is, however, a menu deviation in the downtown location: A couple of à la carte proteins — a roasted half chicken and a Tuscan-style 12-ounce rib-eye with macerated cherry tomatoes, Grana Padano, balsamic jus and arugula.

When I visited about three weeks in, I thought the place captured Nook’s warm personality quite well but with a wardrobe upgrade. Service is polished, engaging and welcoming for a casual restaurant. The sky-high ceiling easily absorbs the classic rock music and room full of chatter. A U-shape bar takes centre stage so, drop in for a drink if that’s all you want.

I loved my kale salad, substantial and savoury with crispy chickpeas, Valentine radish, cashew crumble, snowy drifts of fine Grana Padano, all united with a lovely cashew dressing. Soppressata pizza with sun-dried olives, stracciatella, and hot honey was very satisfying — the honey adding tiny jolts of heat and whispers of sweet.

A veal cheek pappardelle showed they understand pasta. The al dente noodles had resilience, a little bounceback and good flavour. The veal with sauce from the braise was super tender, and a fistful of finely grated Grana Padano was ready to melt and spread umami. A great dish. The roasted half chicken, available only at this location, was bronzed, juicy and tender with uplifts from Castelvetrano olives, raisins, chickpeas and lemon.

For dessert, pistachio and white chocolate parfait with shortbread crumble and passion fruit is light enough to warrant a yes, please! For that matter, the tiramisu feels airy and lighter than its caloric weight, but a little timid — I wished the Kahlua and rum was louder.

For wine, with Le Goff on board, you’re in good hands. The list is, of course, very Italian, nothing too fussy. Mostly reds with neighbourhood friendly prices while still representing prime wine regions like Piemonte, Veneto and Toscana. Many are available by the glass. Cocktails lean to the classics: spritzes, a bellini, a negroni (which is just $11 at happy hour). Beers are from Four Winds and Peroni.

Jaffray is living up to the LFG motto, leading and go-getting.

“With Nook, we’re growing it one location at a time, taking a careful look at potential neighbourhoods. The most important thing for us is to stay true to what makes Nook, Nook, which is the people, the food, and community.”

As for his partnership with Vancouver’s David Hawksworth and Nightingale restaurant, a branch will open at Kitsilano Beach.

“We’re excited,” he says. “Is there a more iconic Vancouver spot?”

Side dish: Bobby Flay brings burger chain to Canada

Bobby Flay, the celebrity chef who has appeared on countless TV shows and authored more than a dozen cookbooks on American food, is making a move into Canada with his burger chain, Bobby Burgers (a rebrand of Bobby’s Burger Palace). The first will be in Toronto but will expand to 65 franchises across the country.

The chain currently has nine U.S. locations in casinos, sport stadiums and airports. Along with burgers (including the signature Crunchburger, topped with potato chips), the fast food chain will offer chicken sandwiches, fries, shake and breakfast.

Flay’s best known restaurant, Mesa Grill, closed in 2013 but he currently operates a Parisian-styled steak house and an Italian seafood restaurant in Caesars Palace in Las Vegas.

A recent Chowhound article on Flay’s properties said, “His burger chain doesn’t always hit the right notes, but if you head to the right location, it can be a good bet for a casual bite.”

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