Anthony Gismondi: Can the wine industry bounce back from the sobriety trend, wildfires and the demise of the U.S. market?

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Typically, as we head into fall, the wine world hype surrounds the harvest and what people think of the upcoming vintage and what it promises for the future. How big will the crop be? What is the quality of the fruit? What will the prices be?

But nowadays, it’s tough to get past the breaking wine news, like 53 per cent of Americans no longer drink alcohol, that sobriety is trending, wildfires threatening vineyards worldwide, falling sales causing vine pullouts, the Boomers aging out, and the World Health Organization’s proclamation that “the only good alcohol is no alcohol.”

Yet with some 6,000 years of production going for it and having survived its share of many down times, wine insiders think the business is on its way backup. Maybe. But there is a lot of work to be done to reverse the tide, and this time it will have to flourish in a world of opposition.

The demise of the No. 1 wine market, the United States, could be a good starting point. As much as Robert Mondavi did to normalize wine as a part of American culture, beer, bourbon and Two Buck Chuck-like brands have been the biggest winners. In a classic case of killing the golden goose, the rush to consolidate and premiumize the wine market has only reduced the selection of quality wine while overpricing a lot of ordinary shlock. In short, expensive ordinary wine is getting hard to sell to any age group.

The U.S. is often tagged as the No. 1 wine market in the world, but to be more accurate, today most of what America is drinking is low-end, non-vintage commercial labels distributed by giant corporations charged with growing sales year after year and compromising quality to save money.

The good news is that there has been significant growth globally. Poland, India, Vietnam, Africa, China, and Central and South America markets are tilting the scales in their direction, which will further diminish the lure of the U.S. market. Canada is pitching in, too, looking to Australia, Chile and Europe to fill the gap left by the overnight boycott of American wine, once the most imported wine in the country.

The light at the end of the tunnel could well be a timely and global shift to sustainability among modern-day forward-thinking producers. While many other economic sectors debate the challenges, the wineries have been in the battle, dealing with wildfires, deep freezes, one-off weather events and gradually warming growing seasons.

In the vineyard, organic, biodynamic and regenerative viticulture is pushing out conventional farming in an attempt to preserve the soil and water. Better clones, better rootstocks, and grapes resistant to mould and cold are already beginning to change the face of vineyards for decades to come. AI will be a welcome addition to an understaffed producer’s day, in the vineyard and the winery.

As for the fortunes of wine, so far all we can say is that vines are more adaptable and seemingly more open to innovation than earthlings, but then they have been doing it for more than 6,000 years.

Weekend Wine Picks

Noble Ridge Vilicus Pinot Grigio 2024, Washington, United States

$21.95 I 89/100

UPC: 696852181686

The Vilicus grigio reflects a bit of the attractive and better Northern versions made in Italy. Expect zippy lemon zest with an intense core that is wound up in a fresh expression of orchard fruits, and a clean, dry finish. Well made. Shellfish, anyone?

Tightrope Winery Riesling Fleet Road Vineyard 2023, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, B.C.

$26.00 I 88/100

UPC: 626990153856

The ’23 Riesling Fleet Road Vineyard is grown on the Naramata Bench from sustainably grown, hand-picked estate grapes. The nose is fresh and the attack is crisp, accentuated by the dry nature of the wine. The palate is a mix of lime rind and starfruit with a spicy finish. This wine can take on some bigger menu items, such as a Kung Pao chicken dish or grilled salmon.

Lightning Rock Cross-Border Collection Albariño Coyote Canyon Vineyard 2024, Horse Heaven Hills, Columbia Valley, Washington, United States

$28.00 I 89/100

UPC: 696852201513

Expect a juicy, easy-drinking style of albariño from Coyote Canyon Vineyard in the Washington Horse Heaven Hills AVA. The nose and palate are soft and round, with notes of pear, stone fruit and a just hint of lees adding a creamy finish. It’s a bit low in acidity, but there is zero sugar, so it’s not a real handicap. I like this wine and would love to see it made with a bit more B.C., acid energy down the road. Try it with a grilled halibut and a fresh chopped fruit salsa.

Antinori Pèppoli Chianti Classico 2023, Tuscany, Italy

$33.99 I 91/100

UPC: 8001935001362

Pèppoli is a single estate in Chianti Classico. It is primarily sangiovese and complemented by other Indigenous grapes, each separately fermented in stainless steel before aging nine months in large, older Slavonian oak barrels. 2023 was one of the warmest years ever in Italy, but Tuscany mainly emerged unscathed, albeit in a richer style. Generous ripe red/black fruit with a thread of chocolate will be a hit with many. The textures are luxurious for sangiovese, with noticeably softer, fleshy black cherry fruit, with dense, ripe tannins — polished in a way most Classicos are not. Drink or hold.

BLK + BLU Blend No 4 Shiraz – Cabernet Sauvignon 2023, Heathcote, Victoria, Australia

$39.99 I 90/100

UPC: 9328478003028

The BLK + Blu is nearly opaque in colour. The nose presents a subtle aromatic blend of raspberries and cherry cough candy. On the palate, there are notes of black raspberry and blueberry, accompanied by hints of oak, spice, and mint. It is well-balanced, and although young, you can enjoy this winner with a variety of barbecued dishes throughout the fall. The grape composition consists of 54 per cent Shiraz and 46 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon.

Calendar and other items

• Mobile tasting rooms are the hottest trend in the U.S. No longer are some wineries waiting for tourists to come to them — the innovative producers are heading out to meet wine drinkers on their turf. Referred to as “mobile wine tourism,” wineries are setting up booths or “pop-up” stands at musical concerts, near food trucks and at festivals. If allowed, some are even offering free samples so people can pre-taste the wine. There is little chance of that happening in B.C., where, ironically, wine, beer and spirits are heavily taxed and regulated by the provincial government, the single biggest beneficiary of their success.

• Letters to the Editor are almost always negative, but sometimes consumers do know best. I don’t remember Donn Rutkoff, but his comments on wine labels in Drinks Insider are gold. “I always pound away at poor labelling disclosure. Ridge Vineyards label has not changed since the Israelites left Egypt. Plain block lettering. Percentage above percentage of every grape in the bottle. Readable in a large enough size that most people don’t need a telescope. If more wineries did this, they might find that a loyalty group would develop. And when $10 or $20 wines claim ‘finest coastal vineyards’ and ‘handcrafted,’ it lowers the belief factor by a bunch.”

B.C. Wine of the Week

Dirty Laundry Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc 2024, Yakima Valley, Columbia Valley, Washington, USA
$21.99 I 89/100

UPC: 696852158855

Dirty Laundry is famous for producing quality wines that are fun to drink, and this replacement Sauvignon Blanc, sourced from Yakima Valley, Wash., reflects that commitment. The style highlights tropical notes, featuring ripe yellow and green fruit complemented by grapefruit and passion fruit, yielding a harmonious and approachable wine. Good value.

Value Wine of the Week

Emiliana Coyam 2021, Valle del Colchagua, Valle del Rapel, Chile

$29.99 I 94/100

UPC: 07804320081496

2021 is the year 20 for Coyam, consistently one of the best and most underrated wines of Chile. A cool vintage has supercharged Chile’s first biodynamic wine grown at Los Robles Estate in the Colchagua Valley. The blend has been adjusted along the way, moving off the Bordeaux model for something more Southern French, but honestly, this is a Chilean wine. The ’21 is mostly Syrah and carmenere with dashes of garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, mourvèdre, petit verdot, malbec and Tempranillo designed to complex the mix in a way few South American reds can. Less new oak caps off a superb red with ripe tannins and savoury mouth-filling black fruits you can drink or hold. There is enormous value here; backup the truck if you have some extra money.